I just tried googling it and all I got were an awful lot of links with Stans name in (a lot of forums surprisingly too) and some odd music sites lol

Had a quick squiz on your site Stan and although you show what the PAACT is the MTCBPT isn't there as far as I could tell?

Also does anyone know is the Dip the Canine Psychology qualification? Or does it mean Diploma in MTCBPT? The letters after someone's name can be confuzzling (she says as she is studying to try and get her own )

Sorry the thread was closed down that is why I could not answer. However I did answer or state what I had studied on the ES/N thread.

MTCBPT stands for Modern Theories of Canine Behaviour Psychology and Training and is an advanced course, only open to practicing behaviourists, and is through the Animal Care College, the oldest and one of the most renowned of the Colleges dealing with animal behaviour. I also have quite a number of other courses and diplomas. But because this is the modern one and some of the others are over ten years old and do not feel they are relevant in todays enlightened times.

To complete this course as I stated needed to be a practicing behaviourist and had taken other courses first. This course required visiting other trainers and behaviourists classes both Puppy and Adult and writing up a full report on the pros and cons of both and why I came to that conclusion.

You are also required to complete a number of individual behavioural case studies with my own clients. These are real dogs and real cases unlike most courses available, it is quite wide ranging. Plus a special study on one specific area, mine was anxiety. This course dealt specifically with canine behaviour and psychology. Unlike many others that deal in zoology. Which I have also taken.

I am currently completing a diploma in Advanced Canine Care Health and Behaviour through the National Home Study Course. I actually never stop reading and learning. I will continue taking further courses until I retire as we can always learn whatever level we are at.

I have also been awarded an honorary Doctorate in Metaphysics. But I never use that and never have, though I am legally entitled to do so. I know a number of well known Behaviourists that call themselves Doctor when the doctorate is either Honorary or not at all related to animals.

I also studied Human Psychology for over 5 years, which also plays a part in what I do as the relationship between owners and their dogs is often Anthropomorphic, causing many of today’s behavioural problems

May I ask why you are taking such an interest in my education? I am sure you are aware that to practice as a trainer or behaviourist there are no recognised education requirements, I do it because I want to. Many do not.

I do hope that answers your questions.

personally I am interested because I like to know what these letters mean - as you say anyone can put anything after their name pretty much these days

I was not aiming that comment at you at all. You certainly did not say I was dodging the question, and I believe you were genuinely interested.

I am also an expert witness in Court Cases involving the Dangerous Dogs Act. If you are not sufficiently qualified or experienced you would be annihilated.

I only ever act in cases for the defence never the prosecution. If you type Dog aggression into Google you will see that I come first out of over two million entries. Therefore I am probably seen as someone who may know something about it.

no problem. Is interesting though As it didn't come up google, would it be an idea to have the MTCBPT on your website do you think?

Why? I have a whole string of letters after my name but I do not use them only the most recent to show I have some qualifications.

I am rarely asked. It only comes up on forums when normally someone is trying to undermine another person. That may be or may not be the case on this forum . But I can take a shrewd guess.

If you are interested this is the basic information on the course.

Modern Theories of Canine Behaviour, Psychology and Training
(Open College Network Accreditation - Ref: 181505 6 Credits at Level 3)

A two Unit Professional Development Course which explores the modern theories and development across three decades in our understanding of how the dog evolved, how he learns, the realities of dominance and why some behaviours develop which are unacceptable to owners. It also considers the effects of diet and health on behaviour and gives an overview of some of the drug therapy now available to support dog and owner through modification of unwanted behaviours.

The course will provide evidence for portfolios required by the Kennel Club and other professional bodies concerned with those offering behavioural advice and providing training for dogs and their owners. The course will be of benefit to those already providing behavioural advice to owners and for those training dogs who are finding more and more that they are being asked for assistance with problem behaviours. Experience in dog training and/or prior study of canine behaviour and training is essential if one is to benefit fully from this advanced level course.

A special study is on a relevant topic is required for this course hence the increased fee level

This is yet another e mail I received 20 minutes ago. See a trend anywhere?

Dear Stan

I was very interested in your article on the internet, in respect of Littermate Syndrome.

I have never had a dog before, but have a great love of all animals. My partner has previous had two dogs at separate times in his life, so has a little more experience.

We recently decided to buy a German Shepherd puppy from a local breeder. The parent dogs have wonderful temperaments and there were 9 puppies in the litter. Two of the puppies were 'white' and the others had the normal GS markings. We decided we would like a 'white' GS puppy.

However, we couldn't bring the puppy home until it was 14 weeks old, as we had other pre-arranged travel plans.. The breeders agreed that this was fine and that they would keep the puppy until our return, with us just paying for its board. However, all the pups were sold with the exception of the other white puppy. In our uninformed 'wisdom', we thought that by having both puppies, it would be easier for them and company for each other. They are both bitches.

When we went to collect the puppies, the carers said that there had been a 'development' in that the puppies were fearless together, but nervous apart. Together they would attempt anything, evening frightening the 'father' dog off!! We didn't realise at that time that it was a problem 'development'. We thought, in our ignorance, that they would be wonderful company for each other.

When we eventually brought the puppies home, they began displaying the classic symptons of littermate syndrome, continuously fighting and biting each other. It was impossible for them to focus on us, they only seemed to want to focus on each other, both wanting to be 'top dog'. Walking, feeding, training all became a nightmare. After a week, we decided that we should take one puppy back to the breeder to see how they both adjusted.

Both puppies away from each other were fine. However, the breeder will not accept this syndrome, has never heard of it and neither has his vet. He therefore wants to charge us kennel fees whilst he has the other puppy, although originally, he was going to keep one of the puppies anyway.

We are trying to find a new home for the one puppy, but are very saddened by the experience and feel that the breeder should have known about this syndrome.

And yet another received 20 minutes ago.

Dear Stan,

I stumbled on your website through the 'Burns' website. I have just ordered your jingler products to assist with lead training.

We bought two Cavalier King Charles pups (bitch and dog) from a friend who is also a breeder. The pups are now 6 months old. I read your article 'siblings, the worst of both worlds' with a sinking heart!! I have been clicker training the pups with success (separately and together), crating them separately, but I am now conscious that having two pups from the same litter probably wasn't the best idea. (The reason we did it was because our two previous cavaliers came from the same breeder; had both died 2 + 4 years ago; we were happy with the breeder and the quality of her dogs; she hadn't had any litters for c. 2 years, and we weren't sure when she would have another litter.)

Unfortunately, our friend died a couple of weeks ago, so a) we can't ask her advice b) we can't ask her to rehome one of the pups c) we would be extremely loath to rehome one of the pups ourselves.

So we're left with your option two - separation for most things for a period of time. Obviously that will be very difficult, but will have to be done. Could you please advise how much time you would advocate them being together during the day? We can crate them separately at night time.

You also mention that you do a 'puppy personality assessment'. I would be very interested in knowing more about what is involved in this, and an indication of how much you would charge. I have read a number of books by authors such as Karen Pryor and Patricia McConnell and have other similar books to read.

I would appreciate your help.

Kind regards.

And another received today.

I really do hope the breeders that get on this forum are reading this. Especially Lisa who thought this was a good idea along with early neutering. These are the many hundreds I get each year. The Ambers and breeders I really do hope you take note before you recommend this again.

Stan

My partner and I just purchased puppies from the same litter and didn’t realize there was such a thing as Littermate Syndrome. We fell prey to our breeder’s pleas to purchase two puppies as we both work full-time.

The puppies (10 weeks old) are shitzu, bison and yorkie, both males have resided with us since May 16th; however it didn’t take long for us (both social workers) to realize that this sibling “play” was not good. They are obsessed with fighting with each other and would rather attack each other than play with toys or with us. We have made a gazillion attempts to engage with them in play and they focus for a few seconds or if we’re lucky minutes and then want to pounce on one another. I read your article “Siblings, The worst of both worlds” and have realized our mistake. However, now I have two adorable puppies that I want to keep but realize we need help. We are planning to try your suggestions on separation.

We currently have an enclosure made for them during the day until they are housetrained. This enclosure consists of two crates, two mats and four feeding bowls. Should we make this enclosure into 2 separate ones?
How do we determine which dog is Alpha?

Can we let them engage at all together?

We’re prepared to put in all the hard work, I just hope we will have happy, well rounded dogs.

Hi Stan,

I just happened on this forum, because I was still looking for help on the internet about how to deal with two sibling Cavalier King Charles pups. Do you have any advice on my e-mail?

Also do you think the advice you give on your website would be the same if the siblings were dog/bitch as opposed to dog/dog; bitch/bitch? Also, do you think the breed of dog makes a difference to the advice you would give?

I grew up on a farm with a wide range of animals (including German Shepherds), so I've got a pretty good background.

Does anyone else have any advice too? I would appreciate it.

Thanks very much.

Hi

The advice would be the same irrespective of the sex. The problem is not gender related it is attachment related. in other words the dogs over-attach and over-bond to each other to such a degree that they become cut off from almost everything except themselves.

I did a talk recently at the largest Pets at Home store in the country near New Malden. Three lots of Siblings turned up, all of them barked at all the other dogs, all had one bold and one timid, and all took more notice of each other than their owners, the owners were just their to feed them and that is the real problem.

They tend not to form a real attachment to their owners, and because of that lack of bonding are far more difficult to train and control.

It is a good question regarding the breed of dog, Cavaliers are great people dogs, they love cuddles and comfort and make great pets. I think as a breed they would be easier than say Rottweilers, Labradors, or Collies. Therefore if you really worked on training them separately, keeping them apart for long periods during the day, getting them to sleep in separate crates and walking them apart for some of the time then it could work.

There is one downside, because Cavaliers are so people orientated they may start to fight for resources, and of course you are the greatest resource.

They can be together for 3 or 4 hours per day, the rest they should really be separated, at night they can sleep in the same room but in separate crates. You need to bond with them as individuals, not as a pair especially for the first few months.

It is not going to be easy but it is possible.

Best of luck

Thanks very much for your advice Stan. I have to say that I personally wouldn't recommend anyone to take on siblings (unless they have unlimited time available and understand dogs very well). The pups are taking up so much of our time (walking/training/feeding/playing with separately). We are seeing signs of improvement, but it's not a quick and easy fix. We definitely didn't notice these problems with our two previous dogs (bought two years apart).

I appreciate the time you took to reply to my post.